Pushkin Through The Eyes of a Foreigner

Moscow is full of all types of hotels, most of which are waaaay overpriced, far away from the city center and lacks any type of charm. And, the hotel I stayed at, The Cosmos, was no exception! From prostitutes wandering the lobby looking for easy prey to elevators that would suddenly stop without warning forcing one to call for help (happened to me in the middle of the night), I knew I could do better and started plotting my escape from The Cosmos. I spent an hour scouring the Internet for a better place and came up with little success until I stumbled upon a small hotel tucked away down a small side street only a few meters off Tverskaya called, The Pushkin Hotel. Since I love Pushkin and had spent countless hours reading his works in Russian and trying to understand them (many times without success) I figured it had to be a good omen! Furthermore, the reviews, the location and the reasonable price……..by Moscow standards, convinced me to book it and flee the monolithic huge Cosmos.

When I arrived at The Pushkin Hotel I admit I was not very impressed, the exterior was painted a rather bland pink and sat right across the street from a half empty construction sight. I was worried that I had…as we say in English…jumped from the frying pan into the fire. However, as a seasoned traveler I learned it is best “not to judge a book by its cover”.

Luckily, though, I did not take The Pushkin at “face value”! When I walked into my “junior suite” I felt as if I had found a tiny slice of paradise hidden away in a sea of mass chaos. I was absolutely blown away; my room was not only nice, but consisted of a main floor with a small sleeping loft. With its tastefully done décor the room made me feel as if I was back in the era of its namesake, Alexander Sergeivich Pushkin.

The staff at The Pushkin provided impeccable service always striving to go above and beyond expectations! I was especially impressed by how the staff handled my complaint about a shockingly huge laundry bill. After my outrage at the bill, they quickly negotiated a fair compensation and agreed to give me a free late checkout, which was priceless to me since I was leaving late that night on the Sapsan train to St. Petersburg. 

At the time of my visit, March 2014, The Pushkin was still a work in progress and was lacking some of the simple amenities you come to expect in a luxury hotel. One such amenity missing was a full service restaurant and room service. Since I am pretty flexible and easy going I felt it gave me a great opportunity to explore all the different dining choices near to the hotel. By the publishing of this article the dining room and room service should be up and running.

Only a few steps away from The Pushkin is the newly opened American restaurant, The Bud House Bar and Grill. As an American I can attest to the fact that the food is quite delicious! Further down the street on Tverskaya is the small chain restaurant/cafe “Pelmаn”, which makes delicious pelmeni and other Russian foods, however I was not too impressed with the borsch. A few hundred meters down Tverskaya is a cafeteria-style diner called “граблы”. I love Russian food so I thought this would be a perfect place for dinner. Was I ever wrong!! The entire staff was made up of immigrant workers who spoke poor Russian and provided awful customer service. Considering the attitude of these workers they may want to change the name of the place from «Граблы» to «Грубый».  If the food had been good I could have overlooked the bad atmosphere and service, but unfortunately this was not the case L. Luckily, however dining options near to The Pushkin are endless!  

Without a doubt The Pushkin Hotel is one of your best deals in all of Moscow. I think anyone would be hard pressed to find a better place in terms of accommodation, price and location. For more information, visit http://otel-pushkin.ru/





Belarus


I’ve always been a bit different! In pre-school when everyone else was marching in one direction, I decided (much to my mother’s dismay) to march in the opposite direction. In high school when everyone else chose to study Spanish, French or Japanese I decided I would instead take Russian, a decision that did not sit well with my high school guidance counselors. So, when friends asked me where I was going for spring break, usually a holiday reserved for partying in a trendy sunny like hot destination, I told them Belarus’, which was met with stares, silence and questions of ‘why there’? Even Russian friends who knew all about Belarus were perplexed with my decision.

Since I'd visited some of the other dictatorships in the ex-USSR, such as Turkmenistan, Kazakhstan and Uzbekistan, I felt Belarus’ was a natural choice! Plus, I was quite intrigued by how my Russian friends told me Belarus was like a miniature Soviet Union frozen in time. I crave different experiences, off the beaten path adventures, so Belarus would be the perfect fit.

I had visions of the old Soviet days, propaganda instead of ads, old Soviet Ladas in place of BMWs and Soviet style shopping centers substituting for the new giant glittering palaces one sees once they venture a few kilometers outside any Russian city. Nothing could have been further from the truth!

When I arrived in Minsk, I quickly realized that the Russian myth of Belarus everyone in Russia spoke of was just that, a myth, an urban legend, a tall tale. Besides the national Coat of Arms which retained the Soviet look and the national police still being called KGB and some propaganda here and there, these were the only real glaring examples I could find of Belarus being some sort of mini-USSR.

Due to the full annihilation Minsk suffered at the hands of Nazi Germany in World War II the city is devoid of any real historical buildings. Even though historical buildings are lacking, the city is still charming, full of modern buildings, casinos on every other block and everything else you expect from a modern world city. When it comes to famous places and attractions, Minsk and Belarus is at a real disadvantage when compared to Moscow, Petersburg and Russia. But, no worries, not all hope is lost, here’s a list of my top places to visit in Minsk and Belarus:

1.     Number one on my list of places to visit in Minsk is the Belarusian National Library building.  Be sure to visit the viewing platform at the very top of the library for a sweeping view of the entire city of Minsk.You may ask how could a library building be exciting, especially one that looks like a big black and grey cube sitting on top of a pedestal? During the day the library looks like some type of Soviet architecture experiment gone terribly wrong. But at night it becomes a whole different animal, serving as a colorful urban light show, which is best viewed from a distance.


2.     The 17th century gothic Mir Castle Complex is located over an hours drive from Minsk. Mir Castle is the highlight of any trip to Belarus! The castle itself is a stunning display of architecture inside and outside. Allow at least a few hours to see the entire complex and museum.

3.     Nesvizh Castle is just down the road from Mir and is equally as stunning a monument. The castle displays relics and artifacts of the noble Radvila family. Nezvizh should definitely be combined with Mir as an entire day’s excursion.

4.     October Gates, twin buildings built in classic Soviet/Stalinist style serves as the city gates to Minsk and is one of its most distinguishable landmarks.


5.     Victory Square is a beautiful monument to those who lost their lives in the Great Patriotic War. One of the main highlights of the square is the stunning 38-meter high granite monument crowned by a 3-meter replica of the Order of Victory.


6.     One of Minsk’s most beautiful places of worship is the Russian Orthodox Holy Spirit Cathedral in the city center. Be sure to pop in for a look at all the beautiful icons and the famous “Minsk Icon” which is believed to be miraculous. Also, be sure to walk around the grounds to have a look at the other quaint church buildings.

7.     National Opera and Ballet of Belarus is a national architectural gem complete with a beautiful park and fountains. This is the perfect place to indulge your cultural side and a wonderful place to hang out on a warm, sunny Minsk day.


8.     On a nice day I would highly recommend a walk through Minsk’s Gorky Park! This park serves as a wonderful oasis away from the urban grind that is Minsk.


9.     Александровский сквер/Alexander Square is a small open green space where one can escape the hustle and bustle of the city. In the center is a well known beautiful fountain with a small statue called “A Boy with a swan”, which is otherwise known as “Panikovka” named after a character, Panikovski, from the famous mid-20th century Russian novel by Ilf and Petrov, “The 12 Chairs”.

10. Октябрьская площадь/October Square is a massive open space in the center of Minsk and is home to a variety of imposing Stalinistic and Soviet buildings. Some of the highlights include, The Presidential Palace (home to Belarusian President Alexander Lukashenko), the дворца республики Palace of the Republics, and the House of Officers/Окружной Дом офицеров. Next to them stands the beautiful National Academic Theater of Yanka Kupaly or Национальный академический театр имени Янки Купалы. And, no visit to October Square would be complete without a look at the Tank Memorial dedicated to the liberators of Minsk in World War II, the Soviet Red Army. 
 
11. Ok, so it was only supposed to be ten, but I would not be giving justice to this wonderful nation if I did not mention one of their main assets and attractions, their women! It’s been said that Belarus is a “Super Model breeding ground” and nothing could be more accurate. The girls are drop dead gorgeous and “according” to my guide are one of “Belarus’s top exports”. I hope to one day export one of these national treasures!

I am so grateful to have experienced all the wonderful sites the nation has to offer and look forward to returning someday soon! After all, I never can visit places only once! I encourage you to give Belarus a chance and guarantee you that you will not be disappointed! Happy Travels!!