Helsinki!

Although I had just arrived in Helsinki less than 24 hours earlier, I was able to shake the initial effects of jet lag and get my day got off to a quick start. I began the day with a delicious buffet breakfast served in the hotel’s beautiful classic old school dining room. The food was good and portion sizes were generous, but one thing I have yet to understand about Finland is their love for non-lactose and skim dairy products! For the second visit in a row I could not find any cream for my coffee, only skim milk and lactose free milk. When I asked the woman who was tending the coffee area where they kept the regular milk she barely understood me and said “milk” and pointed to the skim crap. I said thanks and filled my coffee with skim milk. According to the hotel food management at the last hotel I stayed at, The Scandic Marsk, the skim milk, lactose free way of life is pretty popular in Finland. Why…I will never understand.

My train did not leave until 5:47pm that evening so I had a lot of time on my hands, which gave me a great opportunity to explore Helsinki. Although I’d been there only a few months ago on my way back to Seattle, I really was happy to have another chance to explore this great city! The last time I was in Helsinki I had managed to take in most of the sights except for one, The Rock Church. So, this would be my first destination.

I set out for the Rock Church all bundled up, layers upon layers in an effort to stave off the late Autumn Finnish cold. Luckily though it was not as cold as I had thought it would be making for a semi pleasant walk. On my way I stopped in at the The Kamppi Chapel a Lutheran church,

otherwise known as the “Chapel of Silence”. The church is a giant wooden rounded building, sound proof and a welcome respite from the hustle and bustle of the city that surrounds it.

After spending a few moments looking around and taking time for a somber reflection on my journey ahead I continued to The Rock Church. The church was quite cool and worth the walk! It was such a beautiful, calm place shaped like a big dome with granite walls and a beautiful 360° skylight above it. I spent some time peacefully meditating on the long church benches trying to envision a trip filled with little drama and great success.  

Following my tour of local churches, I headed back to the hotel to put the finishing touches on packing for my trip to Moscow that evening. Having packed everything up I checked out and took my bag down to the lobby where I’d have it stored till later that afternoon when I returned for it.

The smorgasbord/buffet had worn off and I was hungry, so my next stop was to find something to eat. I didn’t need a huge three-course meal, just something to hold me over till dinner. I stopped by Starbucks and it was packed, not a single seat available! I was disappointed and frustrated. Surely I could find a better place, but I really wanted a good cup of coffee and a pastry. After wandering down the Espelandi (a narrow park/green space where people gather in summer and spring to enjoy picnics and the nice weather) I spotted a nice quaint restaurant with big sun room type glass windows.  I looked at the menu and prices were outrageous for food that I’d never pay half the price for. But over to the left of the fancy restaurant in the same building was a cafeteria type café with pastries, cakes, sandwiches, etc. I figured I might as well try it.

I ordered my pastries and coffee and found a nice cozy corner of the restaurant in a space that stuck out from the rest of the restaurant. If you are in Helsinki, I highly recommend stopping at Kappeli. Try their pastries (which are absolutely heavenly) and the coffee (the coffee on the left side is the best). You will not be sorry!!

Having finished my divine pastries I was off to look around the rest of the city. One of my favorite parts of the city is Senate Square where you can find one of the most well known landmarks in Helsinki, Helsinki Cathedral. Helsinki Cathedral is perched atop a mountain of stairs and affords great views of the entire city! This is a must stop when in Helsinki!

Not far from Senate Square you will find the Russian Orthodox cathedral, Uspenski Cathedral, a personal favorite of mine. You can’t miss it as it looms over the city on top of a hill with its beautiful gold domes and brown trim. This is definitely worth a visit with its stunning interior that contains a beautiful iconostatus, a wall of icons. And unlike in Russia where with few exceptions it’s forbidden to take photos it is totally possible to take photos inside this cathedral. Uspenski Cathedral is definitely worth at least a half an hour to an hour out of your day.

I continued my sightseeing by looking around the waterfront and taking in all the sights. There’s something about Helsinki!! It’s such a calm and peaceful city that draws you back again and again. Eventually it was time to head back to the hotel and grab my bag for my onward trip to Moscow aboard the legendary “Lev Tolstoy” train!