Shortly after I completed my abandoned buildings tour I came
down to reception to talk to Vanda about staying a few extra hours at The
Pushkin Hotel until my train left that evening to the legendary city of Kazan, Tatarstan. She told me the other
day that we’d try to think up some solutions so I did not have to pay too much
to stay till that evening. When I came down she did not look like her usual
happy self. I asked her “how are things”……..she paused and said “bad”. I asked
her what the matter was. She said I would kill her when I heard the news. She
said The Pushkin was all full up for several days and that I’d have to leave at
checkout, which would mean I’d have about 10 hours of time without a place to
stay. She was quite disturbed, worried and did not want me homeless for ten
hours. Vanda frantically tried to think up all types of different scenarios but
to no avail.
I was a bit panicked too, but luckily I had a solution in
case there were no cancelations and I was forced out of The Pushkin. For my
return trip from Kazan, Tatarstan through Moscow I had a 15 hour layover between trains
and I had booked a hotel at the train station called “Gorod Otel’” or “City
Hotel”. Their check in and check out time was pretty flexible, so I suggested
that I stay there in case I needed a place to rest. Vanda quickly called them
and indeed they had room, so we made a reservation. She said she’d try her best
to get me a room at The Pushkin so I did not have to move.
The next morning came, but there were still no cancelations,
but she still was hopeful she could pull something off. An hour or two later
after breakfast there was a knock at my door it was Vanda. She said she had
found me a room but that I’d have to move from my nice suite to a much smaller
room. I was open. We went upstairs and she showed me two different rooms and
indeed they were small…………no bigger than a nice coat closet. Plus, they would
cost a lot more than “CityHotel” over at Kazan Railway Station. I said I’d give
it a thought. At that point her shift was over and she was leaving which meant
it was time for one final goodbye. I gave her a big hug and kissed her
goodbye………feeling sad that I wouldn’t see her for another few months.
After a fair amount of time weighing my options I figured I
may as well save the money and move across town to the Kazan Railway Station.
So after a week of being at The Pushkin I somehow gathered up all my stuff
cluttered around the room and headed to the railway station. I got to the
railway station and after going around and around trying to find the hotel
entrance I finally found it tucked away in a remote corner of the station. I
was glad I found it………..the bad news though………it was up at least several
flights of stairs and my bag weighed at least a ton! They had a little ramp on
the side of the stairs to help you, but that did little good just made my bag
tipsy and fall over. So like the famous Greek legend of syphisis, who kept
rolling the rock up the hill only for it to fall down, I kept rolling my bag up
the stairs and the small ramp only for it to fall over and for me to try it
again. After several attempts I finally made it up the stairs to the hotel! The
staff there was very welcoming and I was glad I spoke Russian because without
that skill, I’d be in deep trouble, as they spoke zero English!
I checked in and they escorted me to my deluxe room. It was a
nice room and would do well for my 9-hour stay. It had a view over the train
station, which was ok since I was only going to be spending a few hours there
anyways. I actually enjoyed my view, as it was entertaining to observe from
above all the people scurrying around the station and listening to the non-stop
announcements on which trains were arriving and which ones were departing. I’ve
been to a lot of different train stations in Russia in my life, but for some
reason Kazan Station just felt a bit different. It was more frantic and had a unique
atmosphere to it. It may have been due to the fact that all the trains from the
south come into Kazan Station, i.e. Chechnya, Dagestan and Ossetia, three
places that fair or unfair have a reputation as being bad places.
Kazan Station |
VDNKH Fountains in summer |
Once I got settled into my room I went out to one of my most
favorite places in all of Moscow, VDNKH. VDNKH is a type of Soviet world’s fair
like park with all types of buildings, exhibits, statues and relics to remind
one of bygone times. There you have different pavilions from the ex-Soviet
republics, which profile the republic’s native culture. Some of the other
highlights include a fountain with 15 golden statues in a circle to represent
the ex 15 republics. During summer months when the fountains are on it is quite
the sight to see.
Unfortunately, the fountains were off and they were
constructing an ice skating rink around it, so I only caught a glimpse of them
from afar. But the other buildings were still there in all their glory.
However, it wasn’t always so glorious. Shortly after the USSR collapsed in the
early 90s the park began to decay and many buildings were left to rot. Only
recently did the government start to take an interest in revitalizing the park
and bringing it back to its former glory days. To me this park holds a certain
nostalgic value, as it was the first place I ever visited when I first came to
the Soviet Union in the summer of 1991. Today I can safely say VDNKH is back to
its past glory days and serves as a favorite place for Muscovites to visit
during their free time and during summer when its jammed with people!
I returned to my hotel room tired from all my walking around
and freezing from the chilly weather. After coming back so cold I learned that
it’s better to air on the safe side and layer than under layer. What seemed
like a century’s worth of time quickly evaporated to no time and before I knew
it, it was time to pack up my bags and hop aboard the new double decker train
to Kazan that would take overnight. I looked forward to my next adventure! My
journey was just starting!
Kazan Station entry |
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