The Caucasus


Apologies to readers for dropping out of sight for the last few weeks! Moscow and St. Petersburg have sucked up all my time and energy in every single way. From meetings with old and new friends to doing an interview in Russian for my Russian teacher’s YouTube channel to walking 10+ miles a day, I’ve hardly had a moment to breathe. But, now I am forced to take some down time as I am on my way to Makhachkala, Dagestan in The Caucasus, which is on The Caspian Sea.

My journey promises to be an exciting one! I have a 12-day excursion planned that will take me through the heart of The Caucasus and to places that have been home to some VERY, VERY ugly ethnic conflicts and horrible wars. Whenever I tell people of my plans to visit these areas, their reaction ranges from shock to utter distress to comments like “you sure are brave, I wouldn’t be caught dead in these areas”. When I told my doctor I was visiting Chechnya, she paused for a good 15 seconds and calmly said……….”why”?

So, why would I go to an area that is not exactly a place that is associated with peace and love? Like a moth attracted to light, I am drawn to really off the beaten path places, where there is adventure and even a hint of danger. Traveling around North America and even Western Europe to me is boring. I have no desire really to travel in my own nation, especially with all the gun violence. I truly feel safer on the streets Russia than I do in my own hometown of Seattle. 

I begin my journey in the city of Makhachkala, the capital of the Republic of Dagestan. I continue my path down south to the ancient city of Derbent, near the Azeri border and the furthest point south in Russia. From there I will travel over to Chechnya and spend several days in the city of Grozny, the capital of Chechnya and a city that has been rebuilt from the ground up after two very bloody and violent wars in the 1990s.  Thanks to the republic’s over the top ruthless autocratic, Instagram star leader, Ramzan Kadyrov, Grozny has become a sort of mini-Dubai with over the top buildings and the largest mosque in Europe. After Chechnya, I’ll visit the mountainous republic of Ingushetia, where I have received a special permit for travel. Following Ingushetia I will visit North Ossetia, the highest mountain in Russia, Mt. Elbrus and the city of Pyatigorsk, home to my favorite Russian author, Mikhail Lermentov. 

I’m looking forward to the adventure ahead of me and hope you will follow along as I wind my way through The Caucasus to Sochi, my final destination in the south of Russia. It’s gonna be a hell of a long journey, so let’s go!!!!

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