RUSSIA X


Ten! That’s the number of times I’ve now visited Russia! Not only that, but this summer will mark the 25th anniversary of my first visit to Russia (or the USSR at the time). Like all big number anniversaries you always have to do something special! So, I decided to blow out the lights and take several weeks to travel across Russia by train with my ultimate destination being Helsinki, Finland.

My arrival today in Vladivostok marks my first stop. Vladivostok is an incredible city and home to Russia’s Pacific fleet and is set to become a major player on the Asia-Pacific stage. It is known as the San Francisco of Russia due to its many hills, fog and thanks to the recent APEC summit in 2012 two brand new suspension bridges, the longest in Russia. Recently the city/region has started to pivot toward more economic association with the big three Asian economies, China, Korea and Japan resulting in the setup of the city as a free port meaning visa free travel for some nationalities and other types of implications on trade.

I arrived in Vladivostok with little drama enjoying a great flight where I was the only person in my class, business class. I was served by beautiful women and fed great food. What more could I ask for? Once I arrived on the ground I was greeted by the usual taxi touts but headed straight for the official taxi booth where I could order a taxi. I paid my money, given a voucher to present to the driver and found him with little trouble.  

It seemed everything was in great order until he did not get back in the car instead standing outside and after he popped his hood. I knew this couldn’t be good as he was staring into the engine and all the insides very intently. When I heard him yell out the Russian word блядь (meaning fuck) in a typical Russian voice I knew we’d be a while.  His friend came over and opened the door asking me to wait a bit. So I waited and waited and waited some more till finally a parking official arrived with some jumper cables. Luckily he was able to get the car going within seconds and we were off.

Russian drivers never cease to amaze me with their great bravado, weaving in and out of traffic tailgating other cars while going at about 100kmh or around 60 mph. At times all I could do was close my eyes and hope things would turn out ok. And then after seeing him pull some pretty tight moves in traffic combined with the drama at the airport parking lot I had believed I’d seen it all………that is until I noticed his gas tank needle buried at empty! I thought for sure we’d run out of gas and be stranded out in the middle of nowhere. But as luck had it he got me to my hotel in one piece and even with some fumes in his gas tank to spare I guess.

Check in was generally painless. The front desk clerk, Elizaveta, was absolutely gorgeous as all Russian women are! She gave me my key, told me all the info I needed to know as if she was just reading from a script. I arrived at my room and found that I had two twin beds and not a queen or double bed like I’d requested. Since I was going to be staying for about six nights I immediately returned demanding a better room. The girl agreed to change me to another room and swapped out keys. I got to the second room and it was awful too. There was only one small couch, cold hardwood floors and barely any other furniture, it was as if someone started to furnish the room but forgot to finish……. Again I returned to the front desk, but this time with my laptop to show her the room I stayed in last year that I wanted again. I can only imagine her thinking “what the hell now”!!

I felt like goldilocks who just couldn’t find the right bed to sleep until the third time. And sure enough to my delight third time was indeed the charm!! I’m sure the front desk girl was relieved also not to have to deal with me for the fourth time in an hour! Even with all the drama surrounding the room and the taxi it’s good to be back in Russia!! But what would Russia be without a little bit of drama??

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