Ten! That’s the number of times I’ve now visited Russia! Not
only that, but this summer will mark the 25th anniversary of my
first visit to Russia (or the USSR at the time). Like all big number
anniversaries you always have to do something special! So, I decided to blow
out the lights and take several weeks to travel across Russia by train with my
ultimate destination being Helsinki, Finland.
My arrival today in Vladivostok marks my first stop.
Vladivostok is an incredible city and home to Russia’s Pacific fleet and is set
to become a major player on the Asia-Pacific stage. It is known as the San
Francisco of Russia due to its many hills, fog and thanks to the recent APEC
summit in 2012 two brand new suspension bridges, the longest in Russia. Recently
the city/region has started to pivot toward more economic association with the
big three Asian economies, China, Korea and Japan resulting in the setup of the
city as a free port meaning visa free travel for some nationalities and other
types of implications on trade.
I arrived in Vladivostok with little drama enjoying a great
flight where I was the only person in my class, business class. I was served by
beautiful women and fed great food. What more could I ask for? Once I arrived
on the ground I was greeted by the usual taxi touts but headed straight for the
official taxi booth where I could order a taxi. I paid my money, given a voucher
to present to the driver and found him with little trouble.
It seemed everything was in great order until he did not get
back in the car instead standing outside and after he popped his hood. I knew
this couldn’t be good as he was staring into the engine and all the insides
very intently. When I heard him yell out the Russian word блядь (meaning fuck) in a typical Russian
voice I knew we’d be a while. His friend
came over and opened the door asking me to wait a bit. So I waited and waited
and waited some more till finally a parking official arrived with some jumper
cables. Luckily he was able to get the car going within seconds and we were
off.
Russian drivers never cease to amaze me with their great
bravado, weaving in and out of traffic tailgating other cars while going at
about 100kmh or around 60 mph. At times all I could do was close my eyes and
hope things would turn out ok. And then after seeing him pull some pretty tight
moves in traffic combined with the drama at the airport parking lot I had
believed I’d seen it all………that is until I noticed his gas tank needle buried
at empty! I thought for sure we’d run out of gas and be stranded out in the
middle of nowhere. But as luck had it he got me to my hotel in one piece and even
with some fumes in his gas tank to spare I guess.
Check in was generally painless. The front desk clerk,
Elizaveta, was absolutely gorgeous as all Russian women are! She gave me my
key, told me all the info I needed to know as if she was just reading from a
script. I arrived at my room and found that I had two twin beds and not a queen
or double bed like I’d requested. Since I was going to be staying for about six
nights I immediately returned demanding a better room. The girl agreed to
change me to another room and swapped out keys. I got to the second room and it
was awful too. There was only one small couch, cold hardwood floors and barely
any other furniture, it was as if someone started to furnish the room but
forgot to finish……. Again I returned to the front desk, but this time with my
laptop to show her the room I stayed in last year that I wanted again. I can
only imagine her thinking “what the hell now”!!
I felt like goldilocks who just couldn’t find the right bed
to sleep until the third time. And sure enough to my delight third time was
indeed the charm!! I’m sure the front desk girl was relieved also not to have
to deal with me for the fourth time in an hour! Even with all the drama
surrounding the room and the taxi it’s good to be back in Russia!! But what
would Russia be without a little bit of drama??
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