Paradise lost?

Hawai’i’s Eco-system is not only extremely unique but at the same time is quite sensitive! This is illustrated by the fact that Hawai'i only has 10% of its Native Species left with the rest consisting of endemic/foreign species. Over the centuries when foreign species have been introduced the results have been nothing short of catastrophic to the islands' indigenous species. This threat continues today with the acceleration of globalization where thousands of planes and cargo ships a day are bringing in the constant threat of new foreign invaders who
The Silversword plant native to the island of Maui
could damage this unique land forever. This threat has likely only grown since budget cuts hit both the USDA (US Department of Agriculture) and the Hawai’i Department of Agriculture who both oversee inspection of all things coming into Hawai’i.

Although the arrival of foreign species has been brutal to the Hawai'i Eco-system, the islands still pride itself on the fact that it is snake free. There have been reports in the past of snakes hitchhiking in on landing gear or being smuggled into the state, but luckily the still remains and hopefully will remain snake free. However, all bets are off if the brown tree snake, common throughout Australia, Melanesia and Guam, somehow slips by inspectors (no pun intended) and becomes entrenched in Hawai'i. This nightmare is a very real possibility which could turn paradise into the next Guam, where the brown tree snake has caused extreme environmental damage and has led to frequent power outages. How could a simple brown tree snake result in power outages? From what I have read the snake is able to climb its way up power poles and wrap itself around them thus creating short circuiting and electrical damage. It has become such a problem that brownouts and power outages normally occur once every three days. 

Recently I stumbled upon an article that indicated the US government was prepared to go to war with these pests. How you wonder? By dropping countless number of dead mice stuffed full of toxic painkillers for the brown tree snake to feed upon! I guess the goal is obvious; the snakes eat the dead mice and then get sick and die themselves. Hmmmm…. wouldn’t that make a rather miserable experience if one were hiking out in the middle of a tranquil tropical rainforest and suddenly the heavens open up like a monsoon in the middle of summer, but instead of nice refreshing rain drops pelting you, you are instead assaulted by dozens of dead mice raining down from the skies!

A nice diversion from the thought of toxic mice raining down from the heavens!!!
Compared to other nations/places with sensitive Eco-systems it amazes me just how extremely lax Hawai’i is when it comes to agricultural inspections. Whenever I fly in to Honolulu the only thing required is to fill out a Hawai’i Department of Agriculture Declaration Form asking whether I am bringing in any fruits, vegetables, seeds and plants. All you do is sign the form agreeing that under penalty of law you are telling the truth, hand it to the flight attendant and you’re done! Beyond that, there is no real enforcement except for some local guy sitting at an agriculture kiosk located at baggage claim reading a newspaper. In my countless times of coming over to Hawai’i I am not sure I have ever seen one of those guys do anything more than yawn.

Torch ginger
Contrast this to Australia and New Zealand where agents take an aggressive approach toward guarding their environment against any type of invaders. When one arrives in Australia or New Zealand, you not only are required to hand over to an official your completed agricultural declaration, but also submit all bags to x-rays. As you leave customs agents will not only question you about whether you are bringing the usual plants, seeds, fruit, animals, etc… but they will grill you about any type of food you may have packed away in your bags. And in case this was not enough to scare you from breaking the law, they distribute a scary looking flyer warning you to DECLARE IT OR ELSE! I’ve also had agents ask to see the souls of my shoes to see if they have any large clumps of dirt on them. These strict guidelines not only apply to international travelers, but to those traveling to different Australian states. When you leave the airplane or walk onto the tarmac they have inspectors with trained dogs to sniff out any type of plant, fruit or vegetable you may be bringing with you from that other Australian state.

Bird of Paradise flower
The odd thing about Hawai’i and the agricultural inspection is that the procedure to leave the state for the US Mainland is 100% stricter. You have to submit both your checked luggage and your carry on luggage to inspection. I guess Hawai’i officials figure it may be too much of a bad first impression for the tourist to have to submit their bags to inspection. Plus, HVCB (Hawai’i Visitor’s and ConventionBureau) likely wouldn’t want your average tourist “wasting” time in a line when they could be booking that next golf outing, lame luau, ATV tour, or whatever other lame tourist activity that may be popular today. After all time is money!! I guess they do not realize that if Hawai’i becomes overrun with pests, they may in the end ruin the paradise tourists so love and cherish thus killing the goose that lays the golden eggs. Oh well, that’s America for you, short sighted and not very long-term thinking.

I have hope that Hawai’i will someday do the pono (right in Hawaiian) thing and introduce stricter agricultural rules so it stays pest free for generations to come! Mahalo nui loa kakou (thanks to all) for reading! A hui hou (till next time)!
Ohia Lehua flower and tree

Another Ohia Lehua flower and tree, the official flower of the Big Island of Hawai'i

Hawai’i Paradise?

The Honolulu Gold Coast. Home of some of the most expensive property in the state.

To the average tourist it is hard to grasp what Hawai’i really is all about. To most it serves as an exotic destination where time stands still and all worries are left behind on the tarmac of the person’s departing airport. Many imagine an island chain where the weather is always sunny, warm and beautiful, in other words, paradise.
The stereotypical deserted white sands beach.
However, Hawai’i is not all swaying palm trees and mai tais as there does exist a not so pleasant side of paradise. When I tell the average “mainlander haole (which means white or foreigner in Hawaiian) about this “other side” of paradise they look at me bewildered like as if I just told them there was no such thing as Santa Claus. How could it be nothing less than lush green valleys, rainbows, grass shacks and deserted white sand beaches?
Another day in paradise!

When I told one person about the daily traffic that clogs the Honolulu freeways (yes as hard as it is to
believe Hawai’i does have freeways) and streets, he commented, “well at least there are palm trees and it is warm”. I suppose the same could be said for Compton or Inglewood, California. However, there’s a certain mystique about Hawai’i that separates it from the rest of places where it’s warm with palm trees.

So, about that other side, the side that HVB (Hawai’i Visitor’s Bureau) does not want you to know about! One of the biggest problems facing Hawai’i, particularly the main island, O’ahu, is overcrowding, urban sprawl, and choking traffic. But wait a minute you’re thinking, isn’t Hawai’i just grass shacks, dirt roads and one lane roads
Classic example of urban sprawl in Honolulu
winding along beautiful coastline? Not really, but one can find such bucolic roads on some of the more rural parts of O’ahu and the outer islands like on the island of Kaua’i. Believe it or not, according to a study done by GPS Navigation Company Tom Tom, Honolulu aced out such traffic heavyweights as San Francisco, New York, Boston and even my hometown, Seattle for the dubious title of third worst traffic in North America! There are preliminary plans to build a new light rail system to take the pressure off of Honolulu’s busy freeways and streets. However, this is still at least another decade or so from coming to fruition.

People seem to think that just because one lives in Hawai’i life is somehow easier. This “the grass is greener on the other side” philosophy is perfectly illustrated through the 2011 Best Picture Nominee “The Descendants” which stars ubber mega-star George Clooney. I highly recommend watching it! Not only will it give you a perspective on life in Hawai’i or “paradise”, but also has an incredible plot and of course features some of Hawai’i’s best and most stunning scenery!

Rabbit Island off the East Coast of O'ahu
Not only is traffic a problem in Hawai’i, but the cost of living, otherwise known as “The

Paradise Tax” serves as another example of how life in Hawai’i may not be all it’s cracked up to be. Since everything is shipped in from the United States Mainland, naturally things are going to be much more expensive and combine that with a heavy tax burden one can understand how Hawai’i earned the dubious honor of being named the worst place in the United States to make a living.  

Another “fun” part of living in paradise is the seemingly endless and at times unwinnable battle against insects! Being that Hawai’i is located in the tropics you are almost always fighting against cockroaches, termites, ants, mosquitoes
Sumo cockroach!
and many other lovely critters that inhabit your home rent-free. I used to fight these battles daily when I lived in Honolulu, fighting to keep my beautiful apartment free of these pests. Unfortunately in the end it was always the insects that won the battle since I had to call in the spray company!

I have come to the conclusion that tourism in Hawai’i likely is not the number one moneymaker; instead it absolutely has to be the insect control/spraycompanies who are the kings! Think about the millions of hotels, houses, businesses and other places they must have to treat in a year! The number has to be in the tens of thousands, if not the millions.

Long and windy road into a "lush green valley"
Twilight in Hawai'i
There are many other real world problems that plague Hawai’i that are too large and deep to discuss in a single article. Even though Hawai’i is far from perfect it still is mostly paradise, it just does not feel that way when you’re crawling on H-1 at 20 MPH through downtown Honolulu on a voggy (more on that later) day! A hui hou kakou…translation = till we meet again everyone!

World famous Waikiki Beach




Sunset

Christianity in Russia



Originally a church, the Haga Sophia became a mosque. Today it is a museum in Istanbul.
With all the fanfare over the election of a new Pope and in anticipation of Easter and all the festivities leading up to it, I felt it would be appropriate to write about the role Christianity has played in Russian society. Since the 10th century Eastern Orthodox Christianity has been observed as the official state religion of Russia. For those unfamiliar with the Eastern Orthodox faith, it was once a part of Catholicism until mid-way through the 11th century when both split into two separate camps, Roman Catholicism based in Rome and Eastern Orthodox in Constantinople (modern day Istanbul) until the fall of Constantinople when the church moved to Moscow. Through the centuries and years there has been chatter about some type of reconciliation or even reunification, but little if any progress has been made.

From the 10th century until the 1917 October Revolution when the Bolsheviks/Communists overthrew the Russian Tsar, The Orthodox Church held a central role in Russian society. Once power was consolidated amongst the Communists, the church suffered through a sixty plus year period where its presence and influence was purged from nearly every aspect of society. Supposedly the Communist government had a state policy of tolerance toward religion, however the anti-religious actions taken by the government contradicted this “tolerance”.

The original Christ The Savior Cathedral
Probably the most tragic example of Soviet intolerance toward religion occurred in 1931 when Josef Stalin and communist officials targeted Moscow’s most famous church, Cathedral of Christ The Savior, for destruction. The church had been built in 1883 by Tsar Alexander I to serve as a monument to the Russian people and the courage shown in the face of Napoleon’s foreign army. What had taken forty-seven years to build was gone in only a matter of a few days, wiped off the Moscow skyline “forever”.

The never built Palace of the Soviets
In its place another “cathedral” would rise, an over the top building called, The Palace of the Soviets. On top of this massive structure would stand a 260-foot tall statue to the father of the Soviet Union, Vladimir Ilyich Lenin. Once construction got underway little progress was made due to the boggy nature of the soil and the start of World War II. Eventually after many years of sitting only partially finished the project was permanently abandoned and transformed into the largest outdoor swimming pool.

Lenin's body as seen today.
Soviets tried desperately to replace religion with Communist dogma making leaders such as Vladimir Lenin into gods on earth. Upon his death in 1924 and against his dying wishes, Lenin's body was embalmed so generations of Russians and tourists could pay their respects for years to come. Today one can view his “body”, which lies underneath an airtight glass casket at the bottom of a large marble mausoleum in the heart of Red Square. I write body in quotes since it has been widely speculated the real body was removed years ago and replaced with a wax duplicate. I guess only the elite team of scientists who are Vlad’s caretakers know the truth.

A picture I took of an Orthodox church in the village of Pushkin.
The long freeze on religion started to thaw some in the mid-80s as Soviet officials loosened restrictions on religion and worship. This in turn led to a re-birth of sorts for the Orthodox Church with long closed churches being re-opened as full places of worship. Citizens also started to take more of an interest in the church.

A picture I took of the newly resurrected Christ The Savior Cathedral. 
And, in the early 1990s, there even began talk of re-building the glorious Cathedral of Christ The Savior on the very sight it once stood. After several years of fundraising and construction, the cathedral rose again, serving as a focal point for not only Russian Orthodoxy, but for Moscow as a whole.

Since the fall of the Soviet Union, the church’s influence has only grown larger. Now on major religious holidays you will find most all of Russia’s leaders joining the masses at the newly resurrected Christ The Savior Cathedral for worship, an action that thirty years ago not only would have ended a politician’s career but possibly their life.

Turkmen pride!!!!!


Presidential Palace Square. About 10:30 AM and totally vacant!
My journey across the Turkmen desert may have come to an end, but my time in Turkmenistan had not. There was still a full day of activity ahead of me and since there were no activities planned until mid-afternoon, I had a few hours of free time.

Leaving the hotel without my guide was a liberating feeling since I had been kept on a tight leash the entire week. First stop on my solo walking tour of Ashgabat was Presidential Palace Square. I had seen the presidential palace from my hotel balcony but had not had a chance to see it up close and personal.  

Presidential palace
Mutcharad, my guide, had told me that I was strictly prohibited from taking pictures of this lavish over the top residence. I hated to go against Mutcharad but since he was not around and there weren’t any police nearby, I decided to splurge on the forbidden fruit and shoot at liberty. The palace was absolutely gorgeous, a gigantic building with a gold domed roof. But, what else would you expect for the “President for life”, little house on the marble square?

I continued my walking tour around the Ashgabat city center shooting at will ……..until a soldier with a semi-automatic rifle jumped out of nowhere and yelled at me to stop shooting! Knowing this was a military state/dictatorship I figured I better not mess around and slowly backed away. At that point I felt it was best to return to the safety of my hotel while I was still ahead or better yet not in custody.

A Turkmen carpet with a portrait of the president
On my way back to The Grand Turkmen Hotel I stopped in at a carpet shop to see about purchasing a Turkmen carpet, a souvenir I was hoping to buy before I left the nation. I quickly decided against it when I found that in order to “export” a Turkmen carpet one needed to obtain a “license”. And, not to mention the prices were absolutely sky high.

I got back to my room with about an hour or so worth of free time left. This gave me the chance to catch up on some tasks I had been putting off. As I packed my bag the phone rang and on the other end was Mutcharad saying he was in the lobby waiting for me.

The Turkmen national coat of arms.
Our first stop of the day would be a Turkmen horse stud farm outside the capital in the foothills. These magnificent horses serve as a national emblem and are a source of great pride in Turkmenistan. One can spot them on just about anything from billboards to artwork to the centerpiece of the national coat of arms.

The star Turkmen horse giving us a show
Once we arrived we were met by a Turkmen horse breeder who gave us a tour of the farm. All the horses were absolutely beautiful and one can easily understand why the nation is so proud of this beautiful animal. The horse that really stuck out to me the most was a horse named Obama. Yes, that's right, he was named after US President Barack Obama. In 2009 the horse was given as a gift to commemorate the new American Embassy Staff in Turkmenistan. After a meet and greet with one of the stud farm’s stars (I guess he used to be a top racing horse) it was time for us to leave and head for the caves!

"Obama" the Turkmen horse




Ashgabat or bust!

The hardcore traveler hitching a ride back to the capital!

Dashogouz Airport
Having decided it would be too long and boring to sit around Dashogouz until our flight departed at 11 PM (Turkmenistan Airlines only flew once a day to Ashgabat), we opted instead to exchange our tickets at the airport and join our driver who was heading south anyways. The drive back to Ashgabat would be about six to seven hours but would get us in earlier, around sunset, as opposed to flying when we would arrive just after midnight. 

Everything was cool until the road started to turn into what felt like the Turkmen version of a crash test dummy course. Although I had my seat belt on I was still being tossed around the car, my body feeling every last pothole, giant boulder and divot in the unpaved road. After about an hour and a half worth of bumping and grinding across the Turkmen desert we FINALLY hit nice soft asphalt and what a relief it was! The next four hours of the drive was mind numbingly boring, miles upon miles upon miles of straight desert roads. Once in a while we would encounter heavy traffic, um I mean camels walking seven abreast across the road but that was about the only highlight.

The long and lonely road home!
Two hours into our road trip “home”, my driver pulled over to fuel up. What’s so interesting about this mundane activity? Not much, except in Turkmenistan gas is free, as in ZERO! Each citizen gets a certain amount of gas credit every month to use. Once they have used up the monthly credit, prices “skyrocket” to a “crushing” $0.14 a liter or approximately $0.56 a gallon. Citizens also receive free heating, water, and electricity. So, who said Turkmenistan is not free? All in a matter of semantics! My guide was always emphasizing this fact to me and just about any other foreigner he spoke with.

As we zipped down the highway I noticed something odd………..there was no sign of any ads! This was quite the contrast to Russia where ads are just about anywhere and everywhere. The only thing resembling any type of ad were random patriotic propaganda billboards scattered along the highway. Most of them featured messages praising Turkmenistan and her people, pictures of the great President, the Turkmen horse (more on that in a later post), the nation’s coat of arms, etc.

Turkmenistan restroom
From time to time we pulled off to stretch our legs, pray (as in my driver) and use the “restroom”, which usually consisted of a bush on the other side of a sand dune. Some five hours later off on the desert horizon I spotted a sign, not a stop sign or a Turkmen propaganda sign, but smoky/hazy skies, a sure sign we must be nearing the capital. Right as the sun was setting we finally arrived in to Ashgabat. My epic journey across the Turkmen desert was over.


Sunset over Ashgabat. Kopet Dag Mountains in background.



Billboard highlighting Turkmenistan's attractions
Our prayer, snack and restroom break









Dark desert passage


Map of my travels
As darkness enveloped the Turkmen desert, temperatures began to plummet forcing us to pack up our stuff and begin our three hour journey north to the border town of Dashagouz. The three-hour drive passed slowly with my driver and guide spending the time by watching Persian/Turkish music videos on the SUV’s LCD screen.

When we arrived I noticed a difference in how people looked, how people spoke and just the overall environment. A lot of the contrast was due to the large Uzbek immigrant community who had come over from neighboring Uzbekistan in search of work and a better living. No matter where you go in the world, there always exists an ethnic group that is characterized as the root of all troubles. In Turkmenistan it’s the Uzbeks. In Russia it’s Tajiks, who are blamed for the high crime rates present in Russia’s big cities. In America many unfairly blame Mexican immigrants for taking jobs and in the Arab Gulf states like Dubai, citizens blame Indian workers brought over to work on huge lavish construction projects.

My guide was not a fan of diversity in Turkmenistan, a point he made crystal clear to me in a five-minute diatribe in both Russian and English. He began by saying Uzbeks are not only lazy, but are very difficult to communicate with since they refuse to learn either Russian or Turkmen, the two most prominent languages of Turkmenistan. He continued by noting there are two characteristics that distinguish an Uzbek driver from a Turkmen. The first characteristic is how an Uzbek driver will suddenly stop in the middle of the road for no apparent reason. The second characteristic is the type of car they drive, which is usually an old Soviet car, likely a Lada or a Volga.
Picture of The Hardcore Traveler in front of the ruins of Konye- Urgench

The next day began early with a visit to the ancient monument of Konye-Urgench, a once thriving metropolis and capital of a vast ancient empire ruled by the 14th century conqueror, Timur. I was quite excited since only a year ago I had been on the other side of the border in Uzbekistan visiting the other ancient cities in Timur’s empire, Samarkand and Bukhara.

Ancient Konye-Urgench miniaret
An ancient mausoleum
Although Konye-Urgench was stunning and had incredible cultural treasures, it just could not match what I’d seen the year before. I was puzzled to why Uzbekistan had fared so much better than Turkmenistan. According to my guide, in Soviet days, pre-1991, Uzbekistan received a disproportionate amount of aid from the Soviet government for restoration, whereas Turkmenistan only received a very small amount. However in a bit of irony it is Turkmenistan who has profited the most since the fall of the Soviet Union in 1991, mainly due to their abundance of oil and natural gas. Uzbekistan on the other hand is one of the poorest ex-republics.

The Gutlug Timur minaret as seen through a tiled window
After several hours of sightseeing our day had finished. However, we had one big problem, our flight back “home” to Ashgabat did not leave until 11 PM and it was barely a few minutes past 11 AM, thus giving us about 12 hours to kill before we left. Sitting around Dashagouz for 12 hours was not an option! You can only go to the bazaar so many times.
Another Mausoleum. Many Uzbeks come on pilgrimages to visit these sights
More ancient Mausoleums, sight of pilgrimages by Uzbeks 




The Hardcore Traveler cheat sheet

Since most people are unfamiliar with Turkmen geography, provided below for your reading pleasure is a map of Turkmenistan detailing all the places I mentioned in my previous entries. The second map I found courtesy of the Turkmen Embassy in the United Kingdom. The patterns below the second map represent each of Turkmenistan's five states.

Map of my travels through Turkmenistan


Turkmenistan map from the UK Turkmen Embassy

The Gates of Hell!


Unfortunately…………the four to five hours of rest did not help one bit; in fact I woke up feeling even worse! I had the chills, a very upset stomach and had an absolute splitting headache. It became clear the food at the roadside teahouse had exacted its revenge on me. However, as horrible as I felt, I somehow needed to make it to the Mary Airport and back “home” to Ashgabat.

The Turkmen President staring @ me!
So, I got up, gathered my stuff and somehow stumbled my way to the Mary Airport with my guide. The airport was an absolute cluster f*ck and as I walked on to the tarmac I felt so lightheaded I nearly passed out. I’m not sure how I survived the hour flight to Ashgabat. As I sat there in utter pain there was a large portrait of the almighty President positioned at the front of the plane staring down at me! Damn, I thought, at least I don’t have to have surgery performed by Mr. President. Cold comfort, though!

When I got to my hotel I luckily realized I had brought with me a six-day course of anti-biotics for exactly this type of situation. Since all the usual over the counter stuff were proving to be worthless, I decided I might as well take the first day’s course.

Let this be a reminder to everyone and anyone reading that before leaving for a big trip abroad you should always bring medication for traveler’s diarrhea, food poisoning and any other “bugs” that may try to hitchhike home in your body! For Americans, be sure to visit the Center for Disease Control website where you will find up to the date information regarding proper preparation for any nation you intend to visit: http://wwwnc.cdc.gov/travel/

The next morning I woke up feeling ok, yet ok was a lot better than I had felt the night before. My time in Ashgabat was short as that afternoon we were driving 163 miles north to the village of Derweze, home of the infamous Darvaza Gas Crater aka The Gates of Hell. I felt it was rather appropriate to be visiting The Gates of Hell since the night before had been a living hell for me.

Looking directly into the gas craters
Our plan was to drive three hours up to the village where the gas craters were located. There our driver, my guide and I would have a barbeque dinner or what is known in Russian as shashlik and then set up camp for the night. As we drove up the nearly empty highway, my guide started to glance on his mobile phone at the weather report for that evening. He reported to me there was a chance of rain and snow mixed with temperatures dropping well below freezing that night. Since he already had a horrible cough and I was still recovering from my food poison drama, we felt it’d be best to stop there, but not camp.


Turkmen Jeep crossing
On our way up I hardly noticed any signs of life except for the occasional “Turkmen Jeep”, otherwise known as a camel and lots and lots of rolling sand dunes. About an hour or so into our journey to The Gates of Hell, it was time for a prayer break! No, we were not stopping to pray for salvation before we entered hell, we stopped because my driver was a devout Muslim and had to complete prayer number four out of the five prayers a day. Within seconds of stopping he had his prayer rug in hand and white prayer skullcap on the back of his head and trekked up a sand dune looking for the best spot to plant his rug and pray east, toward the holy city of Mecca in Saudi Arabia.

The original pipe from the oil rig
The Darvaza Gas Craters are a very quirky place and is to Turkmenistan as the Sydney Opera House is to Australia in terms of “must see attractions”. Back in the Soviet days, pre-1991, the area that is now the Darvaza Gas Craters was an oil and natural gas field. In 1971 during a drilling expedition Soviet geologists tapped into a natural gas filled cavern. After tapping into this natural gas vain, a sinkhole developed subsequently swallowing up the entire gas well operation! In typical Soviet style, they felt the best way to remedy the situation was to burn the gas off. To this day the gas crater continues to burn endlessly resembling what can only be described as hell on earth!

The Hardcore Traveler in front of the Darvaza Gas Craters
I had heard and read a lot about the gas craters and was anxious to see it with my own eyes. Since there were no warning signs or fences around the crater I got within about six feet and looked right over into the burning crater. I’ve seen a lot of weird things in my life on my travels, but Darvaza Gas Craters had to have ranked near to, if not at the top of that list. It was creepy, weird, out of this world, and just plain odd all at the same time. I circled around crater getting a close up view and feel! It felt VERY hot and smelled of course like natural gas. The heat and the smell of gas would come in waves. One moment I stood there freezing, the next moment I would get a wave of nasty smelling gas and heat. It was like a gigantic gas fireplace in the middle of the desert. Since the craters opened up (as in actually opened up!) there have been numerous rumors that the Turkmen government will cap them and thus do away with one of Turkmenistan’s most well known attractions! However, there has been no action to date.

Our Turkmen BBQ
Our barbeque or shashlik was absolutely delicious! Plus afterward for dessert we had a ready made fire to roast our s’mores in : ) ! Nah, we didn’t do that, we were so cold we wanted to get the hell (no pun intended) out of there as quickly as possible. Our next stop would be about four hours way up north in the city of Dashaguz near the Uzbekistan border. Stay tuned for my next installment, DWU or Driving While Uzbek! Thanks for reading!